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Technique

Understanding seam allowances in sewing

Seam allowances might seem like a minor detail, but they're fundamental to how garments fit and are constructed. Here's everything you need to know.

Seam allowances are the strips of fabric between the seam line (where you stitch) and the cut edge of your fabric. They seem like a minor detail, but getting them right is fundamental to a well-fitting, professionally finished garment.

Standard Seam Allowances

Most commercial sewing patterns include seam allowances, but the standard width varies by country and publisher. Common amounts include 5/8 inch (1.5cm) — standard in US patterns, 1cm — common in European patterns, and 1.5cm — standard in many European and UK patterns. Always check your pattern instructions before cutting.

Why Seam Allowances Matter for Fit

Seam allowances directly affect how a garment fits. If you sew with a 1cm seam when the pattern requires 1.5cm, each seam is 5mm smaller — across a typical top with 10+ seams, that can add up to several centimetres too tight.

Pressing Seam Allowances

How you press seam allowances changes the look and behavior of a garment. Press open for flatness, press to one side for strength, or catch-stitch for invisible finishing on hems.

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